How to Lay Artificial Grass: The Complete DIY Guide

If you’ve ever spent a summer weekend mowing a lawn that still looks patchy by August, artificial grass starts to feel less like a compromise and more like a reasonable trade. Irish suppliers and DIY installers have refined the process over the past decade, and the good news is that most of the work actually happens before you unroll a single metre of turf. Get the ground preparation right, and what follows is straightforward.

Recommended sub-base depth: 2.5-3 inches · Key base material: 8-0-4 gravel · Compaction tool: Roller or plate compactor · Perimeter option: Timber edging

What should you put down before laying artificial grass?

Three things go down before the turf ever touches the ground: a sub-base aggregate, a weed membrane, and a compress layer. Skipping any one of them creates problems that surface later — dips, weeds pushing through, or a spongy feel underfoot. Irish installers consistently emphasise the sub-base as the make-or-break layer, so getting this part right is worth the extra effort.

Sub-base materials

The foundation is 2.5-3 inches of 8-0-4 gravel (also called Type 1 MOT), a crushed angular stone that locks together when compacted rather than shifting like loose rubble (Artificial Grass IE). Sublime Landscaping recommends a minimum of 100mm of hardcore for Irish soils, which tend to be wetter and less stable than dryer UK equivalents. For heavy-traffic areas, excavate down to 125-150mm; for a standard residential garden, 75-100mm is sufficient.

Quarry dust or granite dust makes a better compress layer than building sand. “We recommend quarry dust over building sand as sand can leave you with divots in your grass in the future,” according to Artificial Grass IE. Lay 20-40mm of sharp sand or quarry dust over the compacted stone base, then compress again before laying the membrane.

Weed control layer

A geo-textile weed membrane goes over the sub-base before the artificial grass goes down. This is not optional — without it, perennial weeds like docks and dandelions will eventually push through the turf. PST Lawns recommends applying weed killer two weeks before excavation to kill the root system, then clearing everything before laying the membrane (PST Lawns). Fix the membrane securely at the edges so it doesn’t shift over time.

Compaction steps

Compaction happens in two stages: first compact the stone aggregate, then compact the sand or quarry dust layer. A vibrating plate compactor (often called a whacker plate) does the job efficiently — hire one in Ireland for approximately €80–€120 per day (Sanctuary Synthetics). Run the plate up and down, then side to side for even coverage. The sub-base should finish 20-30mm below the adjoining surface to allow the turf to sit flush with paths or patios.

How do you lay artificial grass for beginners?

The process breaks into four stages: measure and mark, excavate and edge, install the sub-base, then lay and fix the turf. Each stage has one or two gotchas that trip up first-timers, but none of them are technically difficult — they just require attention to detail.

Measure and mark area

Measure the area you want to cover, then add 100mm on all sides for an overhang allowance. Mark the perimeter with string lines or marking paint. If you’re laying over soil, plan to excavate at least 75-100mm depending on intended use; for high-traffic zones or where the ground is soft, go deeper (CCGrass). On concrete, you can often install directly with adhesive or add a thin 25-50mm layer if the surface is uneven.

Dig and edge perimeter

Remove all existing turf, roots, rocks, and topsoil to approximately 100mm below your finished level. This gives you space for the sub-base and compress layer. Install timber perimeter edging using flat-headed galvanised nails driven into stakes, or for slopes use hanging timbers as described in Woodies’ installation guide. The edging keeps the sub-base contained and prevents the turf edges from lifting over time.

Install and level grass

Fill the excavated area with your sub-base aggregate in two layers, raking each layer level before compaction. Lay the weed membrane over the compacted surface, then unroll the artificial grass with the pile direction facing your house. Cut excess material with a sharp Stanley knife, leaving the 100mm overhang. Join adjacent rolls with jointing tape and adhesive, pressing firmly and weighing down the seam until the adhesive sets.

Fix the perimeter: for timber edging, use 5-6 inch stainless steel or zinc nails every 150mm (approximately 6 inches) around the outside (Artificial Grass IE). For sand or gravel bases, landscape pins driven at an angle hold better than nails in looser material. Brush the grass pile against the grain with a stiff broom to upright the fibres, then add optional silica sand infill at up to 10kg/m² if your product recommends it.

What’s the best thing to put underneath artificial grass?

The short answer is a compacted two-layer base: aggregate below, sharp sand or quarry dust above. The longer answer involves matching the sub-base to your ground conditions — what works for a concrete patio does not work for a wet clay garden.

Gravel vs sand

Gravel aggregate forms the load-bearing layer. Angular crushed stone compacts better than round stone because the faces lock together rather than rolling. Perfectly Green recommends 50-100mm of Type 1 MOT aggregate topped with 10-15mm of sharp sand or granite dust (Perfectly Green). Round river gravel is not suitable as a sub-base — use it only for decorative drainage layers above the main base.

Drainage considerations

One advantage of artificial grass over natural turf is better drainage, but only if the sub-base allows water to pass through. The 8-0-4 gravel is porous by design. Avoid impervious membranes below the aggregate; geo-textile goes over the sub-base only, not underneath it. If your ground has poor natural drainage (common in clay-heavy areas of Ireland), a deeper sub-base helps water disperse laterally before reaching the soil below.

Alternatives for stability

For areas expecting heavy loads — a seating area, a play zone, a path frequently walked — Royal Grass recommends a hardened sub-base with 80-150mm of crushed rubble topped with 20-40mm of sharp sand (Royal Grass). This is thicker than a standard residential base but eliminates any risk of settlement under sustained weight.

How do I prepare the ground for fake grass?

Ground preparation is the stage where most problems originate and where most time should be spent. The checklist is straightforward: remove everything organic, check drainage, level the surface, and add foundation layers in the correct order.

Check drainage

Before excavating, pour a bucket of water on the area and watch how fast it disappears. If it pools for more than a few minutes, your sub-base needs to be deeper or you need to improve the slope away from structures. Poor drainage now means standing water under the turf later, which causes odour and accelerates degradation of the backing material.

Level the surface

After clearing vegetation and topsoil, the exposed soil should be reasonably even. Fill any low spots with compacted rubble or type 1 MOT rather than soil — soil compresses unevenly over time. Rake the surface to a consistent grade, then compact with the plate compactor. The NeoGrass guide recommends compacting twice: once before the laying course, once after.

Add foundations

The foundation sequence is: excavated soil → optional geotextile terram over raw ground → sub-base aggregate → compress layer (sand or quarry dust) → weed membrane → artificial grass. Each layer must be compacted before the next goes on. Woodies specifies a minimum 75mm crushed limestone aggregate base, topped with 20-40mm of sharp sand or builders’ sand as the compress layer (Woodies).

Can I lay artificial grass directly on gravel stones?

Not directly on loose gravel — the surface is too uneven and the stones will telegraph through the turf within weeks. But you can install over gravel if you prepare it properly, and the approach differs depending on whether the gravel is on a concrete base or loose on soil.

On concrete

A concrete surface is already stable, so you don’t need a full sub-base. Sweep clean and remove debris, ensure the surface is dry, then apply artificial grass adhesive directly to the concrete or use a foam underlay. If the concrete has low spots, trowel on a thin levelling compound first. According to CCGrass, you can install directly on concrete with adhesive or add a thin 25-50mm sub-base layer if the surface is uneven.

On dirt

Bare soil requires full excavation and sub-base installation. Dig to 100-150mm depth, remove all vegetation and roots, then build up the layered base as described above. The sub-base does the work that the soil can’t do — it provides drainage, stability, and a consistently firm surface regardless of what’s underneath.

On stones or sand

Loose gravel or shingle cannot receive artificial grass directly. The solution is to add a laying course on top: spread 20-40mm of sharp sand or quarry dust over the gravel, rake level, and compact with the plate compactor. This creates a smooth surface for the turf. If the gravel is deep or uneven, consider excavating it and replacing with proper type 1 MOT — the cost is modest and the result is much more durable.

Step-by-step: laying artificial grass

Five steps take you from cleared ground to finished lawn. Each step builds on the previous one, so resist the temptation to rush.

1. Kill and clear vegetation. Apply weed killer to the existing lawn and any weeds two weeks before work begins. After two weeks, strip off the turf, rake out roots, and remove rocks and debris. Excavate to at least 100mm below your finished level for standard residential use.
2. Build the sub-base. Fill with type 1 MOT or 8-0-4 gravel to 75-100mm depth. Rake level, then compact with a vibrating plate compactor — go up and down, then side to side. Add a second layer of quarry dust or sharp sand (20-40mm) and compact again. The surface should be 20-30mm below adjoining surfaces when finished.
3. Lay the membrane. Roll out geo-textile weed membrane over the compacted surface. Overlap sheets by 100mm, trim to the perimeter, and fix edges with galvanised pins every 300mm. This layer prevents weed growth through the turf — it is not optional.
4. Install the turf. Unroll the artificial grass and leave it in place for at least an hour to relax the backing. Position so the pile faces your house, then trim excess with a Stanley knife, leaving a 50-100mm overhang on all open edges. Join adjacent rolls with jointing tape and adhesive, pressing firmly and weighing the seam until set.
5. Fix perimeter and finish. Nail or pin the perimeter every 150mm using 5-6 inch stainless steel or zinc nails for timber edging, or landscape pins for sand/gravel bases. Brush the pile upright with a stiff broom, working against the grain. Add silica sand infill at up to 10kg/m² if your product specifies it, then brush again to distribute evenly.

What people say

“Your stone base should finish 20mm-30mm below the adjoining surface.”

— PST Lawns (Irish artificial grass installer)

“We recommend quarry dust over building sand as sand can leave you with divots in your grass in the future.”

— Artificial Grass IE (Irish supplier guide)

“A plate compactor (vibrating compactor) — essential for firming the sub-base. Hire cost in Ireland: approximately €80–€120 per day.”

— Sanctuary Synthetics (Irish supplier)

“Sublime always aim to have 100mm minimum of hardcore and quarry dust base.”

— Sublime Landscaping (Irish landscaping contractor)

For Irish homeowners who’ve decided artificial grass is the right call, the installation itself is not technically demanding — but it rewards patience at the preparation stage. Cut corners on the sub-base, and no amount of quality turf will compensate. Get the foundation right, and the surface will stay level and stable for years.

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Homeowners facing patchy lawns often start with a step-by-step reseeding guide before considering low-maintenance artificial grass alternatives.

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